travel
Unpacked by Afar is your weekly guide to where to go, how to travel, and everything worth unpacking in between. Each week, host Aislyn Greene and the Afar team travel the world and dig into the big questions behind every great trip, from the best new hotels and national parks to traveling more responsibly. Some weeks we follow a story through music, food, and culture. Others we tackle a tricky topic, share our favorite destinations, or help you plan where to go next. Because the travel world is complicated. We're here to help you unpack it.
Tlingit author and journalist Kate Nelson discusses her feature 'Traveling Turtle Island' in AFAR magazine, which showcases 14 epic Indigenous-led and Indigenous-owned travel experiences across the U.S., Canada, and Mexico. Nelson explains that focusing strictly on Native-owned businesses helps travelers avoid 'brownwashing' and supports genuine community agency.
Journalist Kate Nelson and editor Jen Choi outline the editorial process behind AFAR magazine's print feature, explaining the decision to use the traditional name 'Turtle Island' for North America to honor indigenous creation stories and oral traditions.
Discussing the geographic diversity of Native communities in the U.S., Kate Nelson notes that Oklahoma holds a unique place in Native American history due to past forced relocations, serving as a melting pot of displaced tribes with distinct traditions.
Reflecting on the 250th anniversary of American independence and her upcoming online piece, Kate Nelson notes that human history on the North American continent spans at least 20,000 years, providing much greater depth when indigenous timelines are included.
Cathy Johnston discusses the 10th anniversary of Mirzam, a Dubai-based bean-to-bar chocolate maker established in 2016. She explains how the brand's recipes and collections draw inspiration from Emirati history, the ancient spice trade routes, and local ingredients like honey and dates.
Cathy Johnston shares that Mirzam's Emirati collection, featuring recipes inspired by traditional regional desserts such as halwa and khabisa, unexpectedly became the company's best-selling range of chocolate bars.
Chef Mohamed Orfali reflects on opening Orfali Bros. Bistro with his brothers on March 14, 2021, amid pandemic social distancing rules. Despite initial skepticism from others regarding the independent neighborhood concept, the restaurant quickly gained community popularity and earned a Michelin star in 2024.
Chef Mohamed Orfali explains that during the first six weeks of operating his bistro, the menu featured an experimental chef-driven burger with fermented mushroom ketchup. Listening to customer feedback, he ultimately converted it into a classic cheeseburger.
Host Nicola Chilton notes that Chef Mohamed Orfali and his brothers achieved recognition this year with all three of their restaurants being named to the Middle East and North Africa 50 Best Restaurant list, alongside maintaining their Michelin star.
Emma John, a writer for Afar, initially found traditional spa vacations not to her liking, preferring to be "on the go" to relax. However, a road trip along the Great Victorian Bathing Trail, which included various water experiences like geothermal spas and mineral springs, helped her change her perspective on wellness. The experience was partly motivated by needing to decompress after covering a major cricket contest in Australia.
Emma John found a significant shift in her perception of wellness at the Hepburn Bath House in Australia. Despite initial intimidation by spa culture, the historic bath house, operating for nearly 200 years, offered a friendly, approachable, and communal atmosphere. This experience, including a private mineral bath treatment, became a highlight of her trip, demonstrating a connection between water, place, and relaxation.
Emma John contrasts the freedom experienced on road trips with the different kind of freedom found in spas. While road trips offer the liberty to make spontaneous choices, spas provide a freedom from thinking and decision-making, allowing one to "let things happen." She found this particularly true in salt water floats, which made her feel held and present in her body.
Emma John's exploration of the Great Victorian Bathing Trail revealed a complex history where Indigenous sacred waters became part of Australia's colonial spa culture. Learning about the impact of developments like the man-made Lake Daylesford on local Aboriginal communities shifted her perspective, prompting reflection on who "owns" water and the historical context of Indigenous bathing practices.
Guide Rob Hyatt is highlighted for his work in Melbourne, aiming to place Indigenous history at the forefront of the city's narrative. Hyatt's efforts focus on reconnecting people with the landscape and its Indigenous heritage, countering a sole focus on colonial history. This approach is seen as vital for understanding the land and its original inhabitants.
Emma John expresses a desire to return to the small town of Trentham, Victoria, which she only briefly visited. The town, known for its waterfalls and culinary scene featuring chefs like Annie Smithers, also boasts charming cafes, art galleries, and a historically preserved hotel. John was particularly drawn to the town's artisanal approach to local produce and its blend of natural beauty and revitalized heritage.
Emma John reflects on how her journey has broadened her understanding of wellness, moving beyond a perceived "selfish activity" to something that can foster greater generosity towards others. She now recognizes the value in mindfulness and being present, acknowledging that these practices, often associated with relaxation, might indeed have merit.
Travel writer Catherine Romaine emphasizes that Thailand's 77 provinces each boast distinct cultures, landscapes, and hyperlocal cuisines, moving beyond the common perception of Thai food as solely Pad Thai or coconut milk soups. She highlights the stunning variety found even in provinces like Nan, which transformed from an opium-producing region to a coffee-growing area.
Catherine Romaine advises travelers to experience Bangkok by intentionally getting lost and following their senses rather than relying on navigation apps. She suggests picking a neighborhood for the day due to potential traffic issues and highlights the friendly, curious nature of locals who are approachable on backstreets and canals.
Romaine shares her experience in Khao Sok National Park, a vast, ancient protected area in southern Thailand known for its wildlife and lush landscapes. She describes the boutique Fanya Mondra organic resort and the elusive Dusky Langurs with their distinctive 'goggle-eyed' appearance.
For travelers seeking less crowded experiences, Romaine suggests islands like Koh Yao Noi, which offers a more local feel with fresh, island-grown ingredients, and the Trang province, known for its stunning beaches. She also points to Nan province as an example of Thailand's rural, mountainous beauty, highlighting its transformation into a coffee-growing region.
Romaine argues that choosing luxury hotels and international chains in Thailand can limit the authentic cultural experiences available, particularly in secondary or tertiary destinations. She encourages travelers to consider smaller, less polished boutique hotels and guesthouses, even if their online presence is minimal, to better connect with local flavor.
Dan from Smiling Albino, a Bangkok resident of 26 years, highly recommends hiring a private guide for iconic sites like the Grand Palace to avoid crowds and gain access to private areas. He asserts that no one regrets the extra cost for a guide, emphasizing the enhanced, more intimate experience it provides.
Sana Javeri Kadri founded Diaspora Spice Co. in 2017 to address the centuries-old, exploitative spice trade. By establishing direct relationships with regenerative farmers in India and Sri Lanka, the company has paid farmers an average of four times the commodity price, totaling $4 million since 2020.
Most spices found in grocery stores are aged for five to seven years before reaching consumers, a fact that surprised host Aceleen Green. This extended shelf life is a consequence of the traditional spice trade, which Sana Javeri Kadri of Diaspora Spice Co. aims to transform.
Sana Javeri Kadri highlights the profound economic and cultural impact of colonialism on South Asia, estimating that approximately $50 trillion in wealth was stolen. She argues that this historical exploitation extended to cultural theft, erasing knowledge about the origins and best uses of spices like black pepper.
Diaspora Spice Co. has significantly improved the livelihoods of its partner farmers by paying them an average of $26,000 per year, a substantial increase from the typical South Asian farmer income of $2,000. This financial empowerment allows farmers to invest in their families' education and expand their farming ambitions.
Livia Spaldin, editor of the 'Best Women's Travel Writing' anthology series, discusses the process of selecting essays from thousands of submissions. She highlights her personal connection to the writing and how themes emerge organically from the collected stories.
Editor Livia Spaldin reflects on her personal transformation as a traveler, contrasting her younger self who sought extreme adventures with her current preference for 'slow travel' and more spiritual experiences. She moved to South Korea at 25, where her travel writing career began.
Livia Spaldin highlights a specific essay in the 'Best Women's Travel Writing' anthology by Anne Hood, a New York Times bestseller. The essay details Hood's journey to Mexico for Day of the Dead celebrations as a way to process the grief from her daughter's death at age six.
Edward Howard, a docent and tour guide, explains that Buffalo's Liberty Building features two statues reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty. One statue faces east towards the developed United States, while the other faces west towards the developing portion of the country, symbolizing Buffalo's pivotal role in national development.
Acelin Green introduces Buffalo as a city with significant architectural heritage, highlighting that many famous American buildings were designed by architects who did their best work there. The city is noted for being accessible for viewing works by well-known architects.
Edward Howard discusses the Guaranty Building, designed by Louis Sullivan, considered the father of skyscraper architecture. Built in 1896, it was revolutionary for being the first building with an exclusively steel frame and curtain walls.
Edward Howard points out that the M&T Bank headquarters, opened in 1966, was designed by Minoru Yamasaki, who is also known for designing the World Trade Center's Twin Towers. At the time of the M&T building's opening, Yamasaki was already working on the Twin Towers' design.
Edward Howard highlights the Seneca One building, Buffalo's tallest at 38 stories, designed by Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, a prominent architecture firm. He notes that the firm was also involved in the design of the Sears Tower in Chicago during that period.
Edward Howard attributes Buffalo's architectural significance to its strong economy at the turn of the 20th century, which included the second-largest rail yard, the largest steel mill, and power from Niagara Falls. This attracted major architects to build there.
Edward Howard states that Buffalo and Chicago are unique in having significant works by Louis Sullivan, H.H. Richardson, and Frank Lloyd Wright, often called the 'Holy Trinity' of American architecture. These architects broke from traditional European styles to create an American architectural vocabulary.
Edward Howard mentions that Frank Lloyd Wright's contributions in Buffalo include the Darwin Martin house, originally built for an executive of the Larkin Soap Company. Wright designed seven structures in Buffalo, with three built during his lifetime and others completed after his designs.
Edward Howard identifies H.H. Richardson as the third key figure in American architecture, noting his work on the Buffalo State Asylum for the Insane, now known as the Richardson-Olmsted Complex. The complex, built around 1880, also featured landscaping by Fredrick Law Olmsted.
A 9-foot-tall bronze statue of Harriet Tubman was recently installed on Michigan Street in Buffalo, New York. The statue, depicting Tubman guiding a child, was brought to the location by a group called the Freedom Walkers and placed near a church that served as a final station of the Underground Railroad. The installation was honored by approximately 200 people.
Terry Alfred, Executive Director of the Michigan Street African American Heritage Corridor Commission, describes the area as representing 185 years of African American experiences and contributions. He highlights its significance as a center for movements like abolitionism and civil rights, and a destination for African Americans during the Great Migrations. Alfred aims to transform this historically marginalized community.
The Michigan Street church, described as the oldest African American-built structure in Buffalo, was a crucial station on the Underground Railroad. It provided refuge for freedom seekers heading north, with many choosing to stay in Buffalo due to the perceived safety offered by the church. The church also hosted prominent figures such as Frederick Douglass, Booker T. Washington, and W.E.B. Du Bois, who spoke on human rights issues.
Mary Talbert's home, located next to the Michigan Street church, was the site where the Niagara Movement was founded. This influential movement, established by W.E.B. Du Bois and William Trotter along with other leaders, eventually evolved into the NAACP. Talbert was a significant figure in civil rights, particularly in the South.
In 1917, African American musicians in Buffalo formed their own union due to exclusion from white unions, leading to the establishment of the Colored Musicians' Club. This club became a vital space for Black artists who performed in white venues but were denied accommodation in city hotels. Renowned musicians like Duke Ellington, Count Basie, and Ella Fitzgerald jammed at the club after their performances.
Terry Alfred describes the urban renewal projects from the mid-to-late 1960s through the 1990s in Buffalo as 'urban removal,' as they led to the demolition of many structures. This, combined with increased integration allowing affluent African Americans to move to other parts of the city, resulted in a distressed community within the Michigan Street corridor. The commission now works to preserve the area's historical integrity and build for the future.
Francis Nash, wife of Reverend J. Adrian Nash and a former resident of the Michigan Street corridor, is remembered for her efforts to address food accessibility issues in Buffalo. She cultivated gardens to provide food for the homeless and needy in the community, a vision that inspired the creation of a community garden and farmer's market in her name. Her entrepreneurial spirit is seen as complementary to the historical heritage of the community.
The podcast 'Unpacked by AFAR' highlights a fascinating geological fact: the Blue Ridge Mountains are older than the Atlantic Ocean. Host Aislinn Green introduces this concept as a way to frame the natural history of the Asheville, North Carolina region.
The Appalachian Mountain Range is identified as the oldest in the world. The Blue Ridge Province, part of this range, is known to the Cherokee as the Land of Blue Smoke. This ancient landscape is a significant draw for visitors, especially during the fall.
The forests of the Blue Ridge region are among the most ecologically rich and diverse in the temperate world. This area boasts over 4,000 known plant species, with approximately 250 unique to the region. This biodiversity makes the area a significant natural treasure.
The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the most visited national park in the U.S., and the Blue Ridge Parkway attracts more visitors annually than the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, and Yosemite combined. These popular destinations are located near Asheville.
The TripWaffle app is a free tool designed to simplify travel planning. Users can forward their travel confirmation emails, and the app generates a clear trip timeline, automatically organizing flight and hotel information. It also offers flight tracking and passport expiration reminders.
Google is providing AI tools to the U.S. Department of Transportation to help staff synthesize research and streamline contracting processes. This initiative aims to enhance the safety and reliability of the nation's transit systems.
Sita, a guide for Eating Asheville, explains that Asheville's thriving food scene is due to the availability of high-quality, locally sourced ingredients thanks to a nearly year-round growing season and diverse microclimates. She highlights that restaurants chosen for tours are locally owned, chef-driven, and celebrate diversity, including international cuisine.
The Italian restaurant Strada Italiano, a 13-year mainstay in Asheville, offers a surprising array of dishes, including a standout gluten-free ragatoni. The chef's own celiac disease ensures the gluten-free options are not an afterthought but a carefully crafted part of the menu.
Raj, the owner of Mehfil Indian restaurant, a vibrant lime-green establishment, transitioned from an IT career to the restaurant industry after a friend's departure. His goal is to showcase the diversity of Indian cuisine, featuring dishes from all 24 Indian states, not just the typical 20 found in America.
Table, an Asheville farm-to-table restaurant for over 20 years, highlights its commitment to local sourcing with dishes like the Liz Green Rice, featuring rice from Liz's Fortune Farm. Chef de Cuisine Kate Smalley emphasizes using ingredients from local farmers and artists, such as the black pearl mushrooms from Black Trumpet Mushroom Farm.
Raj, owner of Mehfil Indian restaurant, believes Asheville's rise as a culinary destination is not due to chefs moving there, but rather to people who chose to stay because of the city's accepting nature. He states that the community's support allows people to live peacefully, regardless of their background.